1997 Johnson 9.9 won't start

[captainmac]

Boat Doc,
My 4 stroke, mod. # J10FEXEUA may have had a stroke! I have tried to resucitate using various methods including jumper paddles w/ 13 volts! I have isolated the "dead man" switch, and ran an "EKG" to test for continuity. It was up and running last season although crossing the solenoid was how I had to start it before I put it to bed for the winter. Now even that won't work! It spins around a couple times then stops without so much as a cough? I really can't afford a trip to the ER and my boat insurance won't cover that anyway. Where do I start?
Thanks,
Capt Mac

[fishin"G"man]

I'm not the "Boat Doc" but I'll try and help you based on 12 years of being a Merc Marine master tech and many more certs on other marine engines.

First things first! Because this is a 9.9 you should be able to pull the starter rope and test the compression. Did you notice a good crisp spark? Now pull the lower end gear oil plug and assure there is no water. With that done and within spec you have a viable engine to continue on.

It sounds like this is an electrical issue (as you have described it anyway). Assure the battery is fully charged and tested to put out the assigned amperage. Your battery cables should be on the terminal clean, tight and the proper size to deliver appropriate amperage th the starter.

If the solenoid is "clicking" it sounds like it is doing as it's asked. Current flow is the next problem. Voltage is not necessarily what you want to check; amperage is in this case. If you have good amperage coming to the starter terminal you likely have a bad starter. Perhaps brushes will fix it but there's no telling until it gets opened up/replaced.

If the engine is spinning over but not firing you have another issue. It didn't sound like you were spinning the engine over very fast (if at all) and of course if it's not spinning over very fast it is "robbing" all the electricity to run the starter and not to fire the slow turning engine.

With the battery fully charged, hook up the water, turn on the ignition switch, pull the starter cord to start your engine. If you are hooked up to a good electrical supply, have compression, there is a good spark and there is clean fuel supplied the engine should fire up.

Good luck with your testing/project.

[captainmac]

Originally Posted by fishin"G"man

I'm not the "Boat Doc" but I'll try and help you based on 12 years of being a Merc Marine master tech and many more certs on other marine engines.

First things first! Because this is a 9.9 you should be able to pull the starter rope and test the compression. Did you notice a good crisp spark? Now pull the lower end gear oil plug and assure there is no water. With that done and within spec you have a viable engine to continue on.

It sounds like this is an electrical issue (as you have described it anyway). Assure the battery is fully charged and tested to put out the assigned amperage. Your battery cables should be on the terminal clean, tight and the proper size to deliver appropriate amperage th the starter.

If the solenoid is "clicking" it sounds like it is doing as it's asked. Current flow is the next problem. Voltage is not necessarily what you want to check; amperage is in this case. If you have good amperage coming to the starter terminal you likely have a bad starter. Perhaps brushes will fix it but there's no telling until it gets opened up/replaced.

If the engine is spinning over but not firing you have another issue. It didn't sound like you were spinning the engine over very fast (if at all) and of course if it's not spinning over very fast it is "robbing" all the electricity to run the starter and not to fire the slow turning engine.

With the battery fully charged, hook up the water, turn on the ignition switch, pull the starter cord to start your engine. If you are hooked up to a good electrical supply, have compression, there is a good spark and there is clean fuel supplied the engine should fire up.

Good luck with your testing/project.

[captainmac]

Thanks fishin"G"man for the help:
Lower unit is full and clean...I had it serviced by my boatyard owner/mechanic before storage. Got spark, however, when I attach a remote starter button at the solenoid (large terminals) I can get the starter to crank but it only engages for about 4 turns. I can repeat this approx. 3 times before the #12 ga. remote wire gets too hot. I can't get anything to happen when I pull the rope...except back and shoulder spasms. I can't get passed the thought there may be an "open" or "short" involved, possibly @ e-stop circuit or starter button under the shift lever. I know the starter button won't function, thats why I was using the solenoid jump wire, which would start the motor easily, prior to fall layup at the boatyard. I brought it home because the mechanics there could not isolate the problem and wanted to start replacing components. Figured if that is the solution, I can turn a wrench well enough to replace parts and not spend as much as a new motor in the process?
So, I just got my replacement Seloc manual in the mail (boatyard claimed they "lost" my original) and will start the electrical troubleshooting at once. As I become more frustated, I will post..."vent"...my progress...or lack of?
Thanks again,
Capt Mac

[Loneangler]

Do not forget to check your emergency shutoff clip to ensure it is fully engaged. In addition, check for a short in the emergency shutoff wires. One of my wires broke (easy fix) and I had similar symptoms.

[captainmac]

Ok..fishin"G"man and Loneangler,
I performed the electrical tests outlined in the Seloc manual to isolate the switch & cvr ay, stop and the start switch assy. They both seem to have fault? At least no voltage shows through either. I have ordered the switch & cvr ay, stop from manufacturer, however, the start switch assy is unavailable from all the sources I have checked thus far? If I install the stop and still get no results, is there a way to safely override the start button?

[captainmac]

Originally Posted by Loneangler

Do not forget to check your emergency shutoff clip to ensure it is fully engaged. In addition, check for a short in the emergency shutoff wires. One of my wires broke (easy fix) and I had similar symptoms.

Update...while I am waiting for my e-stop switch I tested the one on the motor for continuity...It shows continuity both when clip is in or out? Faulty?

[fishin"G"man]

Originally Posted by captainmac

Update...while I am waiting for my e-stop switch I tested the one on the motor for continuity...It shows continuity both when clip is in or out? Faulty?

Faulty. A switch is just that... switches power/current on and off. If your's doesn't "switch" it's bad. If the test shows continuity clip attached or not, it is not working as designed. Depending on where/how the switch is wired, it could be your problem!

[2dognite]

When you are checking voltage across the switches, remember that you will read 0VDC when the switch is in its normal state (the clip is in). It will read 12VDC when in the default state (the clip is not in).

2dognite

[gregsalmon]

Undo the white wire to the man overboard switch and try it

[captainmac]

Originally Posted by fishin"G"man

Faulty. A switch is just that... switches power/current on and off. If your's doesn't "switch" it's bad. If the test shows continuity clip attached or not, it is not working as designed. Depending on where/how the switch is wired, it could be your problem!

OK...guys...now I am confused-I got the new e-switch...checked it for continuity right out of the box...works as it should. I then installed it on the motor, carefully removing the original, it now is showing continuity clip in or out just as the original did! Good news is ( I guess) the original switch now functions as it should (as long as it is nowhere near the motor)?????? Where do I look now?